Monday 29 October 2012

Farewell to Tokyo


Our last day in Tokyo was absolutely amazing!

We had our fruit tart for breakfast, and  after packing up our luggage, quickly walked to the station, passing the galleries we had not had time to visit near our hotel.  I was very impressed by the clothes like thistop that I saw in one shop, but was firmly convinced they were out of my league.  We suspected that the porcelain, antique and fine art galleries we passed were similarly of high price and high quality.

 
 
We then took off for Shibuya for some last minute shopping.

We went staight from Shibuya station into a department store, with floors and floors of women's clothing and goods, which looked interesting, but we really didn't have time to explore.  We thought the ninth floor looked interesting from the pictures above the lift, and found ourselves in an incredible art and craft department called Tokyu.  This is what life must have been like for master craftsmen in medieval and renaissance times.  Each section of the floor had a different specialist example of a master artist  or craftsperson.  These were incredibly individual and talented artists  and the prices were accordingly high, but they were worth every yen.  This is where Tokyoites with money and taste and a value for the traditional skills of Japan came to buy something unique.  It was definitely not aimed at tourists, and in fact, we were the only tourists and English speakers present, yet we were made to feel quite welcome.  I was in Heaven and Bob was absolutely stunned and impressed.  I wish we were mega-rich!  I would buy samples of every artist in that store.  Wow!

There were rolls of kimono brocade and obi materials for sale of a quality I have never seen before.  You could have  garments made up after consultation with the  artist.  There were stunning examples of indigo dyed fabric which had been made into modern garments of incredible quality and style.  One wood worker was hand carving kanji which you could buy separately, or join together to use as hanging ornament in your home.  Another artist in wood made beautiful computer keyboards, postcards, furniture and bowls from wood.  There were jewellery makers who worked in pearls, coral, tortoiseshell and amber.  Other artists printed on handkerchiefs, scrolls, bags and wrapping fabrics.  There were specialist knives, superb examples of pottery, beautiful umbrellas, glasswear, hair adornments.  The last time I saw this reverance and appreciation for design and art was in Scandinavia, but this was far, far more a celebration of the true artist, and a real amalgamation of the past and the present.  It was amazing. 

We weren't getting anything we had planned to get there, just lots of what we wanted to get so we visited the children's floor, but though I love my grandchildren dearly, and the clothes they had there were beautiful, we left empty handed.  Sorry we are so mean with money, honey buns!
 


 
 
 
We emerged from that store into the square outside to find ourselves in modern mayhem.  I have never seen so many people, especially young people, so much noise, so much activity, so many flashing lights and signs.  Bob and I went into instant shock.  This is the Tokyo of movies and of commercialism and materialism.  But there were also lots of art installations and statues.

I spotted the famous famous statue of Hachiko, the Japanese Akita version of the Skye Terrier, Greyfriars Bobby.  This dog loyally waited for his master at the the station at the end of the day for nine years after his master died, just as he had when his master returned from work for the year he lived with him.



We crossed the intersection with difficulty, fighting the urge to run.  We really are not city or crowd people.




It was invigorating in an odd way, but I wouldn't want to be epileptic, agoraphobic or acousticophobic there!
 
We went hunting for shoes and told the nice young man in the shoe shop that we wanted a pair like he was wearing, not what he had in the shop, and he pointed up the street and told us to go to.  It sounded like he said Cruckus. We took off and, on the way, passed these cute little girls 
 
 
this amazing building which looks like something out of Doctor Who
 
 
some of the first real graffiti I have seen in Japan
 
 
some of the most peculiar celebration decorations for Halloween I have seen in an overpriced but trendy cafe, where we had some very average coffee
 


another escapee from Doctor Who, a very English looking telephone box



and some very attractive street decorations.

 
We found the shop, though we didn't buy the shoes there.  It was Clarks!  I can't really laugh at the Janglish we encountered daily in Japan from speakers and in signs.  My pronounciation of words and failure to be able to read or write Japanese does not allow it.
 
It was getting late and we were hungry, but we just had to do a bit more exploring.  We found another department store which had a floor dedicated to craft supplies called Tokyo Hands, where I bought some craft stuff. The Japanese really seem to do an awful amount of craft work.  There are lots of places for buying craft supplies everywhere.  We also made a quick trip to the petshop on the roof to do a bit of hopeless yearning for a land tortoise, a chinchilla, a land tortoise, an odd looking rat or an exotic looking lizard. Damn the Australian quarantine laws.


Was very tempted to buy a little pair of socks or shoes and a matching outfit for the dogs, but didn't. I am sure the dogs wouldn't forgive me.
 
  There were more stores for women and young people around in this area than I have ever seen before - including shoe shops, make-up stores, gaming stores,clothes shops
 
 
and food shops
 
 
But this are is also the best place to do people watching.  You can find such an assortment of styles here:
 
 
 

 
 
 
But, time was flying by and we had to race back to get our bags.  We didn't even have time to eat.  Oh woe!  It was on to the bullet train and back to Narita airport.  We had to make do with snacks in the Qantas lounge before the flight back.
 
This visit to Japan has been the most amazing overseas experience I have ever had in my life.  I have done a lot of travelling, but this is the only country I have ever visited that has surprised me every single day of my visit, and where I feel like, even if I was there for a year, I wouldn't have experienced everything it has to offer.  It is such a mixture of East and West, tradition and modernity, technology and craftsmanship.  It is fascinating in that it is so unique and has its own style.  It is insular, in that it looks inward and in many ways is self-satisfied,  and yet represents the world at large.  It is confronting and soothing.  I really have to go back to Japan again.  I have seen and experienced very little of what Japan has to offer.  And this time,  I need to return with more control of the language, more knowledge of the culture, and more money for buying things - mostly useless, but beautiful.  I would also love to do some cooking and art classes there.
 
We were very lucky to get three seats to share in Qantas on the way back, although, as usual, I couldn't sleep.  I may not have had jetlag, but I was exhausted for the rest of the day.  Our animals had had a wonderful time with their baby-sitter and, in return, the dogs had rewarded her with an expensive  visit to the vet to clear up the flea infestation they had succumbed to, and the cat had made an aborted attempt to bring in a dead rat, a refusal to eat her food and a large amount of vomit on her bed.  In spite of this, Jenny appeared to have enjoyed her trip to Brisbane - especially North Stradbroke Island, the Art Gallery and the St. Lucia university campus.  Now, we are all returning to our normal, rather boring lives.
 
PS.  I hear that some of you have been trying to comment on my blog, but can't.  When I can, I'll consult with my darling, computer literate, kids, and fix the problem.  I promise!
 
 
 
 
 

Friday 26 October 2012

The last supper in Tokyo

We decided to go for a little walk round the back streets of our neighbourhood and find somewhere to eat.  Tokyo is nice in that we always feel safe - shouldn't have said that.  I am tempting fate.  I said that in Malaysia and got my bag snatched!

Anyway, we decided on a little restaurant with a merry group at the back celebrating the end of the working day.  Do the Japanese never go home?  Turned out, the menu was in Japanese and there were no pictures.  Then, we spotted some on the wall, and ordered from the vague representations.  We also ordered sake to celebrate our last night.

The sake turned out to be cold. Bob had never had it before and decided it tasted like watery sherry. I drank lots of water with mine as I thought it was quite strong.

 
 
Then we got this:bean sprouts and mushrooms with a nice dressing.  This was on the house.
 
 
The pickles we ordered turned out to be cabbage with, I think, flaked bonito.  Also nice.
 
 
Next were beautifully fresh edamame, served very warm.
 
 
 
Next, our assorted grilled meats.  We were having trouble working out what cuts the were, and were giggling a lot as we tried to work it out.  Bob thought he recognised a sphincter.  However, we did recognise liver on one skewer.  They were delicious.  The lovely waiter came over and told us we had eaten pork.  Pork liver, pork trachea, pork stomach, pork diaphragm, and some other cut.  We complimented him and he looked rather relieved.  Think he thought we'd throw a tantrum.. Bob has been to Argentina so is used to innards, and I grew up on them, so no fuss. 
 
We had mistakenly ordered rice, but he had not delivered it, and we agreed with his decision.  Instead, Bob ordered another sake and waxed philosophical. 
 
 
We decided to order from another picture and had this.  Beautiful fresh cabbage with a wonderful seasoning.  A really nice last supper with a lovely waiter and a great chef.  We thanked them both as we wandered back home.
 
Then, at the door of the hotel, Bob decided we needed hot chocolate and we started walking, and walking and walking.  No one had any in any of the open cafes.  We did however pass lots of after-work, reeling, laughing, shouting parties in progress.  We finally gave up and bought a fruit tart at Daimaru as it was closing down.  Then, as we were coming back through the underground we found a Starbucks, and had chocolate there. 
 
When we found the way out of the underground we were lost.  Luckily, we had brought a map at the last minute, but none of the streets we came across were named on the map.  We found a landmark we recognised but couldn't agree which way we were facing.  By the time we got back, we weren't hungry any more.  Fruit tart for breakgfast tomorrow, I think!
 
And no, I don't think we got lost because of the sake.

Tokyo - from the fish market to the electronics market

News Flash!  I have finally succeeded in my desire to encounter lots of types of Japanese toilets.  I now can claim knowedge of the Japanese traditional squat toilet, the bidet rinse, the shower rinse, the musical accompaniement, the flushing accompaniement, the seat heater, and the seat cleanser.  Still got the deodoriser to go, but I feel I have done well.

Back to the diary:

We had a very boring breakfast in the hotel today, so didn't bother photographing it.

Then, we visited the Wholesale Fish Market , Tsukiji, admittedly not at the crack of dawn to see the bidding, but early enough to be pretty impressed at the range of seafood available,  the noise,  the busy atmosphere as the little mini trucks and the motor-bikes speed down the aisles, with little care for pedestrians, and the enormity of the amount of fish that pass through this market every day.  It is a wonder that there are any fish left in the ocean!






To tell the truth,  I was stunned at how sickened I was at the thought of how much the sea is being ravaged by us consumers of seafood, and how these beautiful creatures are diminished once they are caught.  It is almost enough to make me become a vegetarian!







Buyers could find shellfish






Buyers could buy fish of any size or shape or colour.





Buyers could buy squid and octopus



Buyers could buy roe.






Buyers could buy prepared meals.

We even saw 2 terrapins trussed up for sale.

We escaped the hustle of the seafood market  by dodging through the hand trolleys and motorised machines


and entered the nextdoor fruit and vegetable market.  As Bob said, you can't hear fruit and veggies scream or see their pain.  Some things we saw were particularly Japanese, like the square watermelon:



and the wasabe



the mushrooms


and the chrysanthemum flowers


 But others reminded us of home



like the carrots



the figs


and the grapes (though those are much bigger and much, much more expensive).

Outside the market was the retail section




 
(can you see the stuffed animals in the latter two shots?  We wonder whether they represented what was for sale there).
 
 


 
 
We also saw lots of food stalls and wondered why we hadn't waited for breakfast.
 
 
 

As we were leaving the area, we noticed that petrol stations here use overhead bowsers to save on space.



Our next trip was to Azabujuban, to find Blue and White, which of course was not where Mr. Apple Maps said it was.  I had read about this shop years ago and about its collection of indigo dyed wares and traditional Japanese ceramics.  It was a lot smaller than I had imagined, but the owner was very nice and it was filled with like minded people.  A lot of it was rather too expensive for my pocket, but I got some good ideas there.

Then, we decided to have a little stroll round the neighbourhood towards Roppongi.  The area was filled with French sounding cafes with macaroons and lots of pastries and coffee.  A lot of the shops seemd very nice, but terrible expensive and there were a lot of ladies around who believed in the maxim "You can never be too rich or too thin"!





There also were some rather interesting buildings there.  The further we got into Roppongi, the more we felt like we had entered Malvern, or South Yarra.



We decided to shun the posh  restaurants and eat at a restaurant catering for office workers and had these delicious dishes and iced tea for only $10 Aussie.  Bob's was beef, mushrooms and rice.  Mine was snake beans, beef and rice with chilli.





Then, we were off again, this time to Shinjuku to check out the electrical goods area.  My God!  6 floors of electronic goods!  I have never seen so many phone cases, headphones, ear buds, ipads and other electronic stuff in my life! Even the watch shop had 4 floors of watches!  Amazing.  As usual, the area was full of eateries too.  And those game parlors.  How anyone can stand the noise I do not know!
 

After a day of so much variety, we limped back to the hotel via the train and collapsed, after picking up our luggage from the lobby.  Tokyo is truly exhausting!  We are trying to get the energy to explore the art galleries near our hotel and get some dinner, but don't know whether we will make it.