Thursday 21 July 2016

Paris Day 2. The Ile de la Cite, the Right Bank and the Boulevarde Haussman

We decided to walk less and use the Metro more so we could perspire less, limp less and travel about more.  Gradually, as we travelled, our understanding of how the Metro system works, our appreciation of the frequency of the trains and our understanding of the diversity of the local population increased.  I think we had vaguely assumed that Parisians would all look like the cast from a Gerard Depardieu, Audrey Tatou or Juliette Binoche movie. We had also expected skinny elegant women to slink around looking impossible gorgeous.  In fact, and quite reassuringly, we have encountered a very multicultural and varied  population.  The French here vary in appearance from blond, blue eyed Northern European type people, to very Mediterranean tanned brunettes, to North African / Arabic types to more southern African tribal members, to West Indians.  There are Vietnamese looking Parisians, Chinese looking Parisians and Parisians of mixed race.  Quite obviously, Paris has been a magnet for immigrants from its former colonies.  There are quite obviously class and income differences and differences in body types and the way people dress.  As my fellow traveller pointed out, if Parisians have the reputation of all being thin, it is probably more because of the amount of steps you have to climb going up and down in the metro, than because of reality.  I would add that even older people use scooters, skateboards and bicycles to get around, and most people walk a lot. Yes, there are quite a few slim, well dressed people around, but not everyone is like that.

 Today, we decided to explore the  Ile de la Cite.  We emerged from the metro into a collection of garden nurseries, all stocked with rather contorted looking olive trees and other potted plants for Parisians to decorate their balcony gardens and roof top gardens. We wandered rather aimlessly around the Conciergerie,




where Queen Marie Antoinette was held before her execution, and then strolled over to the famed Cathedrale de Notre Dame de Paris which still works as an active church, in spite of the amount of tourists visiting it.


The cathedral represents the power and wealth of the Roman Catholic Church


and the devotion of its followers,


but far more impressive, to me, is the amazing craftsmanship was needed to create the lovely and colourful stained glass windows,



and the carvings.


My favourite elements are the decorative elements outside, especially the gargoyles and devils, which seem so incongrously pagan given the intention of the building.





Unlike a lot of the cathedrals I have seen in Spain, which are carefully being restored, this cathedral is quite badly damaged by time.  I wonder whether there is a shortage of funds for repairs, or whether it is a conscious decision to keep the building authentic.  Either way, future visitors are likely to find more and more damage over the years unless something is done soon.

 We continued to explore the Ile and ran into the rather violent looking Charlemagne.


Then, we crossed to the left bank of the Seine and walked along the waterfront where we got some beautiful views of the Cathedral



and  the suburbs west of the Ile.



 On the way, we came across these two amusing pieces of street art:



 After that, we crossed to the right bank and walked up towards Saint Eustache cathedral,



then through the disappointing Jardin Nelson Mandela, which are being restored but look like a wasteland at present, past the weird looking bulb of Agro Paris Bourse, through the back roads to a rather uninspiring lunch in an extremely atmospheric restaurant complete with an elderly, but extremely theatrical waitress who informed and charmed in equal measure.

Next was a walk around the  Louvre with its crowds


past the Arc du Triomphe du Carousel


to the Jardin des Tuileries,



where we did what the locals do.  We sat under the trees with our feet up, ate ice creams and watched the ducks in the duck pond, while eavesdropping on two youths having a tearful heart to heart.  Was it love for each other, as Bob suspected, or love for another?

In the evening, we left the hotel to explore the shops in the Boulevade Haussman.  You can buy cheap or you can buy very, very expensive.  Bob bought a very necessary hat.  I got depressed and bought nothing, but marvelled at the ostentation of the Galeries Lafayette Haussman.






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