I am so in awe of the Japanese train system. We caught 4 interconnecting trains yesterday, and all of them were on time ( the suburban ones required us to wait 2 minutes between trains). All the staff were pleasant and helpful and offered help when we looked perplexed. Why are the Australian systems so awful. Can't they just copy the technology and methods of the systems that work overseas? Isn't it easier to be pleasant to people and take pride in your work than be unpleasant? The only complaint I have is that my cheap suitcase I bought in Vietnam several years ago decided to break its handle mid journey which made it jolly hard to navigate with. Then, getting to our apartment, we chose the exit with stairs rather than the one with a lift and I had to haul the horrible thing up several flights. I was so exhausted from the experience of getting from Tokyo to Kyoto that I forced my fellow traveller to stay home and we only went out to get dinner.
We made up for the lack of activity today, when we decided to visit Takashimaya department store to investigate the floors dedicated to Kimonos and handcrafts and arts. Again, I am in awe. Would that Australian department stores valued artisans enough to dedicate whole floors to displaying their work. The kimono section was completely mind- blowing with its vast range of fabrics and accessories necessary for wearing a traditional or not so traditional Japanese outfit. From obis, to hair adornments, from hair combs to slippers, scented clothes fresheners to brooches, they had it all. The craftsmanship, designs, colours and styles were stunning. We also fell in love with the floor focusssing on Japanese arts and crafts. Wonderful ceramics, glowing lacquerware, hand painted greeting cards, ikebana, hand printed wrapping cloths, netsuke, scarves, cords and slippers and more. There is even an art gallery there! The exhibition hall floor had the most incredible collection of gold ornaments, including a huge phoenix. There were more kimonos, wrapping cloths, etc up there and beautiful wedding dolls. Even the food in the basement is artistic. The cakes and chocolates rival those in France and are beautifully displayed and packaged. We amused the locals with our bad manners as we sat in the resting area and had our divine take-away lunch. I know you are not supposed to, but we didn't know where else to go and no-one told us off.
Our next stop was the Teramachi Shopping Arcade and the Shinkyogoku Shopping Arcade which is full of a huge range of shops, including stamp shops where you can get traditional motifs, local craft shops, a wonderful fabric/ craft supply shop called Nomura-tailor, incense shops, and a crazy wonderful sticker shop. As well as shops, there are the occasional temples which presumably remain from yesteryear - lovely havens of peace amongst all the commerce and bustle. We finally made it to the Nishiki Market as many of the traders were packing up. Their shutters are gorgeous rendtions of past art. The displays of food are so tempting: delectable seafood, beautifully bright sugar candies, fat little dumplings and buns, a myriad of pickled vegetables and seafood, marinated vegetables. All so photogenic. Another exhausting, inspiring, amazing day.
Monday, 17 October 2016
Saturday, 15 October 2016
Tokyo: day 6
We walked to Ueno station today, stopping to clean our glasses at the free automatic spectacle cleaning machine outside the chemist. The Japanese are so clever at design, and they have a gadget for everything and a service for everyone. For instance, in the station there is an ostomy facility, there are special traffic facilities for the blind, and there are rooftop gardens for children.
Anyway, we then caught the train to Nippori station and walked to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture. This used to be the home and studio of the famed sculptor, Asakura Fumio, and his sculptress daughters. He designed the structure himself and it is truly beautiful. Very traditional in a lot of ways with tatami mats, sliding screens, a beautiful goldfish pond with the biggest koi carp I have ever seen, and traditional garden surrounding it, and traditional furniture, yet very Western in others due to the vast bookcases and the large rooms, and very original with its rooftop flower and vegetable garden, its wood- like balustrades and its skylights. It is truly a centre of peace cut off from the outer world, in spite of the fact that it also served as a private art school. Many of his sculptures are displayed, such as his famed, " Grave-keeper", depictions of his daughters and his marvellous cats (he had about 10!)., but one can also see his sketches, paintings and photographs of his work. In the museum, one has to wear socks, which are lent to visitors, avoid touching the walls and exhibits, and not take any photos, but photos are allowed at the outside rooftop and entrance. I am so glad we did not miss out on this museum, but wish I could have taken photos. It was beautiful.
After the visit, we wandered around the neighbourhood back streets, visiting the many graveyards and cemeteries, peering into local hoses and gardens, and visiting the myriad of artisan shops and stalls dotted around. A walk in this area is a great way to see a suburban side of Tokyo. We also had afternoon tea at a rather nice cafe with both Japanese and Western drinks and cakes and desserts, eavesdropping on a couple who seemed to be in the process of stealing a design for a flowing top. We got the giggles at Americans of Japanese descent trying to communicate with the waiter by using Pidgin English and sign language. We had a really brilliant afternoon. Very photogenic, relaxing, interesting and informative.
Back at Ueno station we enjoyed wandering around the gift shops and admiring the truly gorgeous flower shops. They really have such a huge variety of plants for sale and creative arrangements. Inspiring!
Tomorrow we catch the bullet train to Kyoto. A new adventure!
Anyway, we then caught the train to Nippori station and walked to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture. This used to be the home and studio of the famed sculptor, Asakura Fumio, and his sculptress daughters. He designed the structure himself and it is truly beautiful. Very traditional in a lot of ways with tatami mats, sliding screens, a beautiful goldfish pond with the biggest koi carp I have ever seen, and traditional garden surrounding it, and traditional furniture, yet very Western in others due to the vast bookcases and the large rooms, and very original with its rooftop flower and vegetable garden, its wood- like balustrades and its skylights. It is truly a centre of peace cut off from the outer world, in spite of the fact that it also served as a private art school. Many of his sculptures are displayed, such as his famed, " Grave-keeper", depictions of his daughters and his marvellous cats (he had about 10!)., but one can also see his sketches, paintings and photographs of his work. In the museum, one has to wear socks, which are lent to visitors, avoid touching the walls and exhibits, and not take any photos, but photos are allowed at the outside rooftop and entrance. I am so glad we did not miss out on this museum, but wish I could have taken photos. It was beautiful.
After the visit, we wandered around the neighbourhood back streets, visiting the many graveyards and cemeteries, peering into local hoses and gardens, and visiting the myriad of artisan shops and stalls dotted around. A walk in this area is a great way to see a suburban side of Tokyo. We also had afternoon tea at a rather nice cafe with both Japanese and Western drinks and cakes and desserts, eavesdropping on a couple who seemed to be in the process of stealing a design for a flowing top. We got the giggles at Americans of Japanese descent trying to communicate with the waiter by using Pidgin English and sign language. We had a really brilliant afternoon. Very photogenic, relaxing, interesting and informative.
Back at Ueno station we enjoyed wandering around the gift shops and admiring the truly gorgeous flower shops. They really have such a huge variety of plants for sale and creative arrangements. Inspiring!
Tomorrow we catch the bullet train to Kyoto. A new adventure!
Friday, 14 October 2016
Day 5 Tokyo
Today we wandered through our local back streets again. Quite frankly, the architecture and the building materials are prettty grotty, which is odd considering the Japanese appreciation for good design and craftsmanship. Yet it is a very clean city. Partly this is because all garbage is sorted into bottles, burnable garbage and PET, partly because it is not considered good form to eat, drink or smoke in the street, and partly because there are no public bins, except near vending machines. But, considering how much packaging goes into every purchase, one would expect a lot more rubbish to be floating around. We found a lovely little glass shop yesterday. Today, we found a little shop that sold stamps. You can get your own name in kanji or kana , made up with beautiful handles and cases. Quite divine. On the way, we came across an elderly man who had come off his bike and was lying on the pavement looking very dire. A heart attack, perhaps? A crowd of people were ministering to him. One was on the phone to the ambulance. Another had put a pillow under his head and a teddy to hold. A third was taking his pulse and monitoring. Another stood in the road to hail the ambulance when it drove down the street. Nice to see such community involvement.
We scooted off into Ueno Station to buy our train tickets to Kyoto. We must have been the most under-prepared customers he had ever come across but he was so polite, tolerant, patient and helpful. Being here makes one realise just how rude the service to customers in general, but to foreigners especially can be in Australia. This seems especially true in our railway stations and airports. Why the difference? Is it because in Japan there is respect for every job, and people feel pride in their work? I don't know, but I do know how appreciative I am of the sheer kindness and generosity of the people we have met here. We haven't met one unhelpful person. Even in restaurants where on would assume only locals would go, an English menu will appear, or at least a menu with pictures.
Lunch was from a little store that sells pre-packaged meals or lets you choose your own combinations, charging by weight. The only drawback is that we found it impossible to find the public dining area. Desperate, we crouched unobtrusively, we hoped, outside and ate in a secretive manner.
From Ueno, we travelled by train to the JR Nippori Station. We noticed little homilies everywhere on respecting others' space and feelings. It is not customary to speak on the phone on the train. One is warned about the dangers of texting and walking. There are reminders to be aware that backpacks can inadvertently jab others.
Then, we walked to the Nippori Textile district, otherwis known as a Fabric Town. An amazing kilometre of shops. From the outside, they look like you would find nothing. Inside, each shop is a wonderland, often with floors and floors of goods. My friend, a keen and talented artist on the sewing machine, bought liberty prints, furnishing fabrics, and dress materials, as well as ribbons, cords, fur pom-poms, sew- on motifs, buttons, rubber stamps and containers. I got Japanese cords, sew on motifs, and Japanese prints. We both got tempted by jewellery making supplies, furnishing tassels and braids, felted ornaments and toys, bag handles and more. A real must for crafters and those who sew. The business of the streets makes one realise how common making your own clothes is in Japan, not only older women were there, but young women, and men.
Next, we crossed the train line to try to find a sculptors' home and gallery in Yanaka. Google maps lost the plot, and by the time two very nice locals had stopped us to offer help, it was too late to get in. All was not lost. We wandered around this residential district, peering into graveyards and finding wonderful little gift shops. We then found Hebi-dori, a street that serves as an artisan centre, food court, antique centre, market street. This is the only place that people eat in the street. We found a wonderful tea shop with exquisite ceramics and decided we have to come back to this area tomorrow.
We scooted off into Ueno Station to buy our train tickets to Kyoto. We must have been the most under-prepared customers he had ever come across but he was so polite, tolerant, patient and helpful. Being here makes one realise just how rude the service to customers in general, but to foreigners especially can be in Australia. This seems especially true in our railway stations and airports. Why the difference? Is it because in Japan there is respect for every job, and people feel pride in their work? I don't know, but I do know how appreciative I am of the sheer kindness and generosity of the people we have met here. We haven't met one unhelpful person. Even in restaurants where on would assume only locals would go, an English menu will appear, or at least a menu with pictures.
Lunch was from a little store that sells pre-packaged meals or lets you choose your own combinations, charging by weight. The only drawback is that we found it impossible to find the public dining area. Desperate, we crouched unobtrusively, we hoped, outside and ate in a secretive manner.
From Ueno, we travelled by train to the JR Nippori Station. We noticed little homilies everywhere on respecting others' space and feelings. It is not customary to speak on the phone on the train. One is warned about the dangers of texting and walking. There are reminders to be aware that backpacks can inadvertently jab others.
Then, we walked to the Nippori Textile district, otherwis known as a Fabric Town. An amazing kilometre of shops. From the outside, they look like you would find nothing. Inside, each shop is a wonderland, often with floors and floors of goods. My friend, a keen and talented artist on the sewing machine, bought liberty prints, furnishing fabrics, and dress materials, as well as ribbons, cords, fur pom-poms, sew- on motifs, buttons, rubber stamps and containers. I got Japanese cords, sew on motifs, and Japanese prints. We both got tempted by jewellery making supplies, furnishing tassels and braids, felted ornaments and toys, bag handles and more. A real must for crafters and those who sew. The business of the streets makes one realise how common making your own clothes is in Japan, not only older women were there, but young women, and men.
Next, we crossed the train line to try to find a sculptors' home and gallery in Yanaka. Google maps lost the plot, and by the time two very nice locals had stopped us to offer help, it was too late to get in. All was not lost. We wandered around this residential district, peering into graveyards and finding wonderful little gift shops. We then found Hebi-dori, a street that serves as an artisan centre, food court, antique centre, market street. This is the only place that people eat in the street. We found a wonderful tea shop with exquisite ceramics and decided we have to come back to this area tomorrow.
Thursday, 13 October 2016
Day 4 Tokyo
Today , we decided to walk to Ueno park through the back streets of our neighbourhood. Such wandering is one of my favourite ways to explore a city. We discovered that the Japanese use bicycles to get around in a leisurely fashion. Even the elderly and infirm cycle elegantly and slowly through the streets rather than taking a car. We also discovered that they store their bicycles in tiered bike stands under their apartment buildings, and crime is so low that no one bothers to use bike locks. We also noticed how keen the locals are to create little gardens: either groups of pots on the footpath outside their homes, or in garden beds if they have them. There is something cheering about these flashes of colour amongst all the concrete. We passed a group of childcare workers pushing 3 big pram-loads of children , all wearing their identifying nursery hats, out for a walk. They look so cute. Once children go to school, parents seem to happy to let them navigate the streets and trains alone. This indicates a high rate of confidence in their safety that makes one wonder why we don't have the same confidence in Australia.
We passed through bustling street markets near the railway line selling everything from dried squid to mochi, shoes to toys, sexual dress ups to restaurant meals. So alive and vibrant.
Then we were miraculously among the trees and paths of Ueno park. The miracle of an oasis in the city. We came upon Kiyomisu Kannon -Do where one can leave prayers for a pregnancy which is safe and healthy. Inside the temple is beautiful, and there is a view through the gardens towards the Shinobazu Pond and the Bentendo Temple. This temple reminded me of the similarities between all religions with its stress on cleansing oneself before prayer, its specific deity for a specific problem, its candles and its atmosphere of quiet and peacefulness.
We strolled on through the woods to the Tokyo National Museum. The Honkan, or Japanese Gallery, a very impressive and imposing building, with beautiful lamps, lead lights and mosaics. The collection provides a summary of Japanese art from ancient times to the 19th century. We enjoyed its collection of ceramics, fabrics, painting, woodblocks, furniture, enamel wear, netsuke, metalwork and more. The craftsmanship involved in the creation of even something as simple as a bobbin is extraordinary in this country. We tried stamping Japanese motifs and had a lot of fun. Truly worth a visit.
We also visited the Toyokan, which showcases art from Asia, which includes India and Egypt. Again, the collection is quite stunning. The links, similarities and differences between the different cultures is very interesting. We tried our hands at interpreting dreams and embossing, but passed on fortune telling with knucklebones. Another very impressive museum
We returned home via the amazing, lotus covered , Shinobazu Pond . Descending the steps towards Bentsen Island with its Bentendo temple, we were startled to see the roadside lined with people leaning on the railing all checking their phones. How odd. Passing fast food vendors, and multitudes of statues, we climbed the steps to the temple, which proved to be very rich and photogenic.
Then it was slowly home in the dusk, to put up our feet and rest.
We passed through bustling street markets near the railway line selling everything from dried squid to mochi, shoes to toys, sexual dress ups to restaurant meals. So alive and vibrant.
Then we were miraculously among the trees and paths of Ueno park. The miracle of an oasis in the city. We came upon Kiyomisu Kannon -Do where one can leave prayers for a pregnancy which is safe and healthy. Inside the temple is beautiful, and there is a view through the gardens towards the Shinobazu Pond and the Bentendo Temple. This temple reminded me of the similarities between all religions with its stress on cleansing oneself before prayer, its specific deity for a specific problem, its candles and its atmosphere of quiet and peacefulness.
We strolled on through the woods to the Tokyo National Museum. The Honkan, or Japanese Gallery, a very impressive and imposing building, with beautiful lamps, lead lights and mosaics. The collection provides a summary of Japanese art from ancient times to the 19th century. We enjoyed its collection of ceramics, fabrics, painting, woodblocks, furniture, enamel wear, netsuke, metalwork and more. The craftsmanship involved in the creation of even something as simple as a bobbin is extraordinary in this country. We tried stamping Japanese motifs and had a lot of fun. Truly worth a visit.
We also visited the Toyokan, which showcases art from Asia, which includes India and Egypt. Again, the collection is quite stunning. The links, similarities and differences between the different cultures is very interesting. We tried our hands at interpreting dreams and embossing, but passed on fortune telling with knucklebones. Another very impressive museum
We returned home via the amazing, lotus covered , Shinobazu Pond . Descending the steps towards Bentsen Island with its Bentendo temple, we were startled to see the roadside lined with people leaning on the railing all checking their phones. How odd. Passing fast food vendors, and multitudes of statues, we climbed the steps to the temple, which proved to be very rich and photogenic.
Then it was slowly home in the dusk, to put up our feet and rest.
Wednesday, 12 October 2016
Day 3 Tokyo
Today, we went back to Shibuya to see if I could connect my camera to my iPad. Thank goodness for smart young people. The young lady in the store kindly set up the app for me, gratis. We all cheered when it was done. Now I can post photos - if I don't write too much, and if nothing else happens due to my ineptitude.
The next stop was Loft to check out the stationary department. Absolutely amazing! Everything from pens to calendars, stickers to note books, papers to washi tape. You could really go mad in here.
We moved on to Muji for lunch and then strolled down to the incredible Tokyu Hands for craft supplies. I kept getting diverted by the incredible non-craft things for sale. What an obsession the Japanese have with Halloween, which they seem to regard as an excellent opportunity for dressing up and decorating, party mode. I am blown away by the enormous range of goods for increasing your flexibility. I think I really need a massaging chair. It is as good as a physiotherapist! When we finally reached the craft section, I desperately wanted the modelling clays, the leathers and the papers there, but settled for incredibly cheap embroidery threads, patchwork squares, and a cross-stitch pattern. How come these are so much cheaper than in Australia? Next time, I am bringing a larger suitcase. I got a crush on some of the stylishly quirky, senior citizens shopping in there. Wish I had to nerve to photograph them all. One woman was dressed in an electric blue satin skirt, a sequined jacket and a magnificent hat. A man had a sort of skirt, sweeping coat, blocky platform shoes and pony tail and looked like a sci fi hero. While in Tokyu Hands, we also checked out the pet shop with its incredible array of accessories for pets. Somehow, I don't think my cats would wear a fedora, or the dogs would appreciate being dressed in Halloween outfits, but I can dream! I yearned after a very cute hedgehog and played with a tame baby budgie, then reluctantly left them and moved on to Science base which was awesome. Lots and lots of science based goods which were so much fun!
The next department store on the list was the Incredibly expensive Tokyu Honten store. We focussed on the 8th floor Art Gallery with its collection of antique china and glasswear, an paintings by Japanese artists such as Tomoko Abe and Leonard Foujita. Very different and very interesting, but way beyond my price range.
We were exhausted so popped into the French, Brasserie Viron for a sit and some tea. The couple beside us was enjoying a, for us, very odd combination: French pastries and a salad with what looked like blood sausage, washed down with cappuccino.
Then, it was back home on the metro, stopping to buy a pre- prepared meal at the local supermarket.
Ps. Having problems accessing photos right now. Sigh. Will add them later.
The next stop was Loft to check out the stationary department. Absolutely amazing! Everything from pens to calendars, stickers to note books, papers to washi tape. You could really go mad in here.
We moved on to Muji for lunch and then strolled down to the incredible Tokyu Hands for craft supplies. I kept getting diverted by the incredible non-craft things for sale. What an obsession the Japanese have with Halloween, which they seem to regard as an excellent opportunity for dressing up and decorating, party mode. I am blown away by the enormous range of goods for increasing your flexibility. I think I really need a massaging chair. It is as good as a physiotherapist! When we finally reached the craft section, I desperately wanted the modelling clays, the leathers and the papers there, but settled for incredibly cheap embroidery threads, patchwork squares, and a cross-stitch pattern. How come these are so much cheaper than in Australia? Next time, I am bringing a larger suitcase. I got a crush on some of the stylishly quirky, senior citizens shopping in there. Wish I had to nerve to photograph them all. One woman was dressed in an electric blue satin skirt, a sequined jacket and a magnificent hat. A man had a sort of skirt, sweeping coat, blocky platform shoes and pony tail and looked like a sci fi hero. While in Tokyu Hands, we also checked out the pet shop with its incredible array of accessories for pets. Somehow, I don't think my cats would wear a fedora, or the dogs would appreciate being dressed in Halloween outfits, but I can dream! I yearned after a very cute hedgehog and played with a tame baby budgie, then reluctantly left them and moved on to Science base which was awesome. Lots and lots of science based goods which were so much fun!
The next department store on the list was the Incredibly expensive Tokyu Honten store. We focussed on the 8th floor Art Gallery with its collection of antique china and glasswear, an paintings by Japanese artists such as Tomoko Abe and Leonard Foujita. Very different and very interesting, but way beyond my price range.
We were exhausted so popped into the French, Brasserie Viron for a sit and some tea. The couple beside us was enjoying a, for us, very odd combination: French pastries and a salad with what looked like blood sausage, washed down with cappuccino.
Then, it was back home on the metro, stopping to buy a pre- prepared meal at the local supermarket.
Ps. Having problems accessing photos right now. Sigh. Will add them later.
Tuesday, 11 October 2016
Day 2 in Tokyo.
Our second day was a bit of a mixed bag.
I woke at 6.30 to the sound of frantic sirens. It took me a while to realise it was just the local fire brigade, but I missed out on a nice sleep in while I struggled to work out whether we were listening to an earthquake warning or not. (I know. I am paranoid)
When we ventured out, it was to find that the portable wifi had a dodgy battery, so we could not use Google maps and had to find paper maps. Nevertheless, we had a lovely stroll round the back streets of Kojima, peaking into the myriad of tiny shops specialising in all sorts of weird things. One had antique buttons, but was closed so we saved a lot of money. We enjoyed the little gardens that people created in tiny little spaces, the beautiful flower shops and the little temples created in front of entrances. The locals sedately cycled around, doing their shopping. We admired a little dog sitting in his owner's bicycle basket and she waved his little paw at us. So "kwaii " ( cute)! We found the Kayadera Buddhist temple and ogled its pretty little garden and learned about the grave of Ishikawa Masamochi, a Japanese classical scholar. Then, I popped into a chemist for some anti-itch cream for a mosquito bite I had got in Australia, and the pharmacist produced this miraculous little machine which translated the diagnosis and treatment. I was most impressed.
We next caught the train to Obote-Sando. This makes it sound as if we were in control. In fact, we got a lot of help from very kind gentlemen on the way. How I adore charming, kind people who do something for nothing. Once at Obote -Sando, we strolled along the very elegant Miyuki street, agog at the boutique stores. The Prada store is especially stunning as an architectural wonder. I have decided that I am very partial to Issy Miyake's clothes - but I assumed I couldn't afford them, so I made do with the Cos sale.
Unfortunately, Nezu Museum, which was our destination for the day, was closed, so we headed back to the Minamiaoyama main road and had lunch in a trendy little cafe called the Antenna Wired cafe. I was quite chuffed that a young man told me I look very trendy. I love flattery.
Next, we headed for Shibuya station to check out a department store that I remembered as having marvellous artisans on the top floor. As usual, it was very crowded with trendy young people. I managed to interrupt an interview with someone famous, I presume, as I tried to take a photo of some of the statues around. . The famous one of Hachiko, the Akita dog which remained loyal to for more than 9 years after his master's death, had a huge queue in front of it of people waiting to be photographed with him, but I managed to get some of the mural to him.
We couldn't find the store I was looking for, but thoroughly enjoyed trawling through the Tokyo Toyoko store, which has a lot of quirky and individual gifts, many of them designed by artists and craftspeople. Hikarie was another wonderful department store, full of quirky little souvenirs for those back home. We had a lovely time with me flirting with some delightful little children until we mislaid a bag of shopping . We are going to contact the lost and found department again tomorrow, but the loss dispirited us somewhat, so we headed home.
We popped into a local restaurant on the way back for some dinner and they miraculously produced an English menu and a nice meal of soba noodle soup with smoked chicken, rice and vegetables and pickles. Yum.
Ps. Photos will be posted later.
I woke at 6.30 to the sound of frantic sirens. It took me a while to realise it was just the local fire brigade, but I missed out on a nice sleep in while I struggled to work out whether we were listening to an earthquake warning or not. (I know. I am paranoid)
When we ventured out, it was to find that the portable wifi had a dodgy battery, so we could not use Google maps and had to find paper maps. Nevertheless, we had a lovely stroll round the back streets of Kojima, peaking into the myriad of tiny shops specialising in all sorts of weird things. One had antique buttons, but was closed so we saved a lot of money. We enjoyed the little gardens that people created in tiny little spaces, the beautiful flower shops and the little temples created in front of entrances. The locals sedately cycled around, doing their shopping. We admired a little dog sitting in his owner's bicycle basket and she waved his little paw at us. So "kwaii " ( cute)! We found the Kayadera Buddhist temple and ogled its pretty little garden and learned about the grave of Ishikawa Masamochi, a Japanese classical scholar. Then, I popped into a chemist for some anti-itch cream for a mosquito bite I had got in Australia, and the pharmacist produced this miraculous little machine which translated the diagnosis and treatment. I was most impressed.
We next caught the train to Obote-Sando. This makes it sound as if we were in control. In fact, we got a lot of help from very kind gentlemen on the way. How I adore charming, kind people who do something for nothing. Once at Obote -Sando, we strolled along the very elegant Miyuki street, agog at the boutique stores. The Prada store is especially stunning as an architectural wonder. I have decided that I am very partial to Issy Miyake's clothes - but I assumed I couldn't afford them, so I made do with the Cos sale.
Unfortunately, Nezu Museum, which was our destination for the day, was closed, so we headed back to the Minamiaoyama main road and had lunch in a trendy little cafe called the Antenna Wired cafe. I was quite chuffed that a young man told me I look very trendy. I love flattery.
Next, we headed for Shibuya station to check out a department store that I remembered as having marvellous artisans on the top floor. As usual, it was very crowded with trendy young people. I managed to interrupt an interview with someone famous, I presume, as I tried to take a photo of some of the statues around. . The famous one of Hachiko, the Akita dog which remained loyal to for more than 9 years after his master's death, had a huge queue in front of it of people waiting to be photographed with him, but I managed to get some of the mural to him.
We couldn't find the store I was looking for, but thoroughly enjoyed trawling through the Tokyo Toyoko store, which has a lot of quirky and individual gifts, many of them designed by artists and craftspeople. Hikarie was another wonderful department store, full of quirky little souvenirs for those back home. We had a lovely time with me flirting with some delightful little children until we mislaid a bag of shopping . We are going to contact the lost and found department again tomorrow, but the loss dispirited us somewhat, so we headed home.
We popped into a local restaurant on the way back for some dinner and they miraculously produced an English menu and a nice meal of soba noodle soup with smoked chicken, rice and vegetables and pickles. Yum.
Ps. Photos will be posted later.
Day 1 Tokyo
We arrived in Tokyo bright and early, and feeling full of confidence, and got on the train to Ueno from Narita airport. This overconfidence was the beginning of our downfall. We had somehow caught the slow train, instead of the Express one that we intended to catch, so it took much longer than planned and we filled in the time people watching. Culottes, sheer stockings and hats are in for ladies in 2016, in case you are interested.
At Ueno station we discovered our next mistake. Booking-in time was 4, and we had 4 hours to kill lugging our bags around. All the lockers were full, so we had lunch and wandered round the shops with our luggage until 2 pm, when we lost patience and decided to take our chances with the Airbnb
we had selected.
We elected to take the luxury of a taxi trip. Unfortunately, our map and address were in English and the taxi driver couldn't understand the map or our instructions. He finally got a vague idea of where we wanted to go and drove us to a police station in the general vicinity and hopped out of the car, locking us in the taxi which he left blocking the intersection. Some time later he confidently drove us towards the flat. We were feeling relieved when he suddenly turned right and started heading off in the wrong direction. Alarmed, we asked him to stop and let us out. He seemed convinced that he was leaving us in the wilderness, but since Trish, my partner in crime, knew the way, we hoofed it to the apartment, which turned out to be unusually large for Japan.
We have 2 big bedrooms, each with a queen sized bed and a built in cupboard. Our kitchen/ dining/living area is roomy enough for 2 people and we have a little verandah, complete with escape hatch and ladder should we have an emergency. We have a Japanese bathroom : one sits on a stool and soaps and rinses oneself, then hops in the bath for a soak, once clean. The toilet is also very Japanese, complete with a spray wash, an air dry, a musical accompaniment, a heated seat and a little sink above the toilet for one to wash one's hands in. (The water from one's washed hands fills the cistern for future flushing). All very civilised.
After a collapse and a soothing cup of green tea, we headed for the local supermarket. Heaven. Not only does it sell groceries, but it has a huge selection of pre-prepared meals. We selected our choices for dinner, added fruit, teas, edamame, green tea ice cream and mochi for snacks, and returned home in a much better frame of mind. Dinner eaten, we collapsed into bed and slept like logs.
At Ueno station we discovered our next mistake. Booking-in time was 4, and we had 4 hours to kill lugging our bags around. All the lockers were full, so we had lunch and wandered round the shops with our luggage until 2 pm, when we lost patience and decided to take our chances with the Airbnb
we had selected.
We elected to take the luxury of a taxi trip. Unfortunately, our map and address were in English and the taxi driver couldn't understand the map or our instructions. He finally got a vague idea of where we wanted to go and drove us to a police station in the general vicinity and hopped out of the car, locking us in the taxi which he left blocking the intersection. Some time later he confidently drove us towards the flat. We were feeling relieved when he suddenly turned right and started heading off in the wrong direction. Alarmed, we asked him to stop and let us out. He seemed convinced that he was leaving us in the wilderness, but since Trish, my partner in crime, knew the way, we hoofed it to the apartment, which turned out to be unusually large for Japan.
We have 2 big bedrooms, each with a queen sized bed and a built in cupboard. Our kitchen/ dining/living area is roomy enough for 2 people and we have a little verandah, complete with escape hatch and ladder should we have an emergency. We have a Japanese bathroom : one sits on a stool and soaps and rinses oneself, then hops in the bath for a soak, once clean. The toilet is also very Japanese, complete with a spray wash, an air dry, a musical accompaniment, a heated seat and a little sink above the toilet for one to wash one's hands in. (The water from one's washed hands fills the cistern for future flushing). All very civilised.
After a collapse and a soothing cup of green tea, we headed for the local supermarket. Heaven. Not only does it sell groceries, but it has a huge selection of pre-prepared meals. We selected our choices for dinner, added fruit, teas, edamame, green tea ice cream and mochi for snacks, and returned home in a much better frame of mind. Dinner eaten, we collapsed into bed and slept like logs.
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