The trip through the city showed us a different side to Hanoi: broad French avenues, expensive cars: Audis, Porsches, BMWs, Lexuses ( and many of them huge 4 wheel drives though why anyone wants a 4 wheel drive in this city is beyond me!) and shady parks. As we left the city and entered the suburbs, we came across more and more amazingly narrow but multi-story houses- 7 floors was the highest I counted- wide freeways and then lots and lots of new developments. The pollution followed us out into the country. So did the incredible driving. The French guy who was travelling with us wasn't coping as the bus overtook into approaching trucks and kept biting his knuckles ( yes, people actually do that!) and cursing in English when the terror got too much. So far I have seen three accidents involving motor bikes where the riders were hurt. One guy was crying by the side of the road surrounded by concerned locals. This time we saw the bikes abandoned where they fell- not cleared away - but no sign of the riders. Hope they are okay.
Gradually, farms, towns, village and industrial areas merged. Rice in all stages of growth, in the fields ,
then houses, then fish farms, then quarries, bananas, and so on. The lotuses are drying out and I really yearned to jump out of the bus, and stuff a few flower heads in my bag.
We stopped at the mandatory craft/ gift centre which from the outside looked a bit like a mausoleum with all the marble statues.
Pictures varied from Klimts' "The Kiss" to Picasso's "Guernica" to Vietnamese art copies to flowers. They also had lacquer work, jewellery, clothes, food,bone, coconut and other crafts for sale. All with the most amazing technical skills, but very little individuality. It was a bit Dickensian, with the workers at the bottom of the pecking order, then the sales people, then the docket writers and wrappers, then the cashiers. I didn't buy the metre high marble fish Bob wanted, but bought silk thread at $7 US for 100 grams.
We arrived at the Paradise Cruise Terminal, at Tuan Chau Island and a complete culture shock at about twelve. Talk about a sudden shift to luxury, peace and staff willing to cater for your every whim! We were given refreshments and snacks while we waited to be assigned our guide, Nyam, who turned out to be very sweet, very new to her job and very willing to improve her English. Once on the boat,
we were greeted by all the staff, including the young manager, Trong, who was very ambitious, and also very nice and eager to please and improve. I felt like I was back encouraging students when I was with them! After a health and safety check and a run down of the itinerary, we were shown to our rooms. As the last to book, we got the least luxurious room, but it was still very nice:
Then it was time to soak up the view on the way to and in the Bay of the Descending Dragon and the perfect weather.
My swelling was still playing up, so I remained on the boat to take English coversation classes, draw and write, and get spoiled by the staff who even produced ice packs for my feet, while Bob explored Surprise Cave ( Hang Sung Sot) with the other guests. Apparently, there were great views to be had when climbing up to the cave with interesting formations and bats inside.
I also amused myself watching the floating villages, cruise boats, fishing boats, house boats, transport boats and floating 7/11s
Halong Bay may be beautiful, but you are never alone.
When they returned, we went sailingthrough limestone inlets until we got to TiTop Island where I decided that swimming was preferable to climbing to the summit.
Sunset was beautiful, with eagles wheeling overhead.
After dinner, Bob decided to try his hand at squid fishing.
While I admired the little flying fish:
Then it was off for a great night's sleep.
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