Day 20 Rome; Sant'Antonio del Portoghesi and shopping

Our last day in this wonderful city, and in this wonderful country. 

We wanted to make some last minute purchases but couldn't resist popping into the Sant'Antonio del Portoghesi.

 

 A very charming gentleman inside explained it that is the national church of the Portuguese community in Rome and the venue for many concerts.  While we were there, a talented Polish guitarist was rehearsing for the evening's concert.  Another chance find that proved to be a  delightful experience.

 

 Passing several of the tourist bearing horse and coaches,

we also discovered the last remains of the Temple of Hadrian

 

and the Spanish Steps - which were covered in tourists.

 

 

We found, with great difficulty, the Confetteria Moriondo e Gariglio, which, considering the wonderful taste of its sweets and chocolates, the magnificence of its packaging, the helpfulness of its staff and the slightly reverend atmosphere of the shop, does not advertise its presence very well.  We stumbled across the very good Citta' delSole toy shop and returned to the Piazza Navona and the nearby Al Sogno toyshop.

 

And we lastly returned to the Via del Corso and its off shoots for more window shopping.

 

There is so much more to experience, see and do in Italy.  I am certain we will be back.

Day 19 Rome: west of the river Tiber, the Castel Sant'Angelo

 

Today, we decided to cross the river and explore the area around Via Cola di Rienzo and the Via Crescenzio. 

 

 

This area is a lot less overrun with tourists, even though it is near to Vatican city, has quite a few street markets, and has the charming Piazza Cavour in front of the Supreme Court.  We found the Mercato dell' Unita, with its colourful display of fruit and vegetables, its delicatessen areas and its butcher and fish shops.  I always am intrigued at the different ways that each country prepares and presents meat.  Here, the chickens were leaner and more yellow than in Australia, the cuts of beef quite different, the amount of offal more prevalent.

 

 

We also discovered the wonderful gourmet store, Castroni. Not only does it have wonderful ingredients for the Italian cuisine - sweets, pastas, sauces, spices included - and a stand up cafe, but it also stocks foreign food.  We even found Jamaican Ackees there!

 

 

Bob had been wanting to visit the Castel Sant'Angelo, originally commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a Mausoleum for himself, but later used as a fort, papal fortress, a residence, a prison and then a museum. 

 

 

At first, I wasn't very impressed as we climbed round and round the alleys and corridors ever upwards as all I could see were locked room, the occasional cannon and the impression of stolid and solid stone.

 

 

 



  It isn't until we came to the statue of Saint Michael by Raffaello de Montelupe that I began to feel there was more to offer. 

 

 

 After that, we were given access to some of the apartments with their frescoes, many of them pagan or sexual,

 

 

 

ornamentations,

 

 

 

 

works of art

 

 

 and furnishings, spaces for executions and an armory.

 

 

  I always am a bit bewildered by the way the church manages to combine a religion of peace with so much violence. There is also a bar and a café and a vine covered patio to enjoy your purchases while taking in the view. At the very top, we discovered one of the greatest views of the city. 

 

 

 

 

 

We could also hear bands playing, people cheering, the sounds of Rome.

 

Descending to the city below, we discovered that the Ponte Sant'Angelo was popular spot for bridal photos.

 

 

 

 

How I love the infinite variety of experiences in this city!

 

 

 

 

Day 18 Rome: Piazza del Popolo, the Borghese gardens, the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna

Today, we meandered up the Via di Ripetta past the Mausoleo di Augusto, which is being renovated, and up to the Piazza del Popolo.  Although this street  is a bit seedy in some parts, I quite liked it for some of its interesting shops. The Piazza del Popolo is also being renovated but is far less seedy being a very broad pedestrian area, and with its Egyptian obelisk, churches (the Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto), the Porta del Popolo

and the Fontana del Nettuno amongst other  sights.  They were setting up for yet another concert while we were there.  Italy seems to have rather a liking for public concerts.

We decided to access the Borghese gardens, but before climbing towards them, we admired the rostral columns to each side of the Fontana della dea di Roma, and amused ourselves trying to work out what the images represented. 

When we reached the Pincio Terrace, we discovered that it afforded us a truly wonderful view of the city,

and was a wonderful place for children to fly kites.  We were also happy to find that it was much cooler up there, and that the park was great for strolling under the trees,

 coming across wonderfully unexpected sights,

listening to buskers, and  watching people try out the go carts, bicycles, segways and surreys.

 We then, very happily, stumbled upon the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna

 and the wonderful lions on its steps encouraged us to venture in.

  What a find!  All the tourists flock to the same tick off locations, where the crowds make it almost impossible to enjoy the facility or sights.  There were very few people in this wonderful gallery, which is a shame for those who miss out, but was wonderful for us.  The temporary exhibit section included  a lot of textile art like this sculpture, Jannah, by Mehdi-Georges Lahlou,

and this textile piece Purgatorio by Bili Bidjocka

and this wooden one by Bruno Conti.

However, very well known artists are also represented, like Gustav Klimt

Van Gogh

Degas

Emile Antoine Bourdelle

Rodin, Cezanne, Monet and Boldini.

Even more amazingly, the gallery was putting on a series of concerts, and we were lucky enough to listen to this wonderful group of musicians in the foyer rehearsing.  Truly, our most unforgettable experiences have been totally unexpected.

Day 17: Rome: the Trevi fountain, the Tiber River, the Piazza della Bocca della Verita and the Santa Maria in Campitelli

 

 

Today was very hot, and we decided to just meander around the city.  I have been admiring the quirky old vehicles that are around.  I thought I desperately needed some of my own until it was pointed out that I would be frustrated by their  old fashioned speeds, braking, steerage and manoeuvrability.  Still, they are so cute!

 

 

 

 

We came upon the Trevi Fountain, which would be a magnificent sight if it wasn't for the hundreds of tourists who all but block any sight of the fountain, as you can see.

 

 

Everywhere we walk in the old part of the city, we come across of old remnants of Rome's great civilisation, like the Area Sacra di Largo Argentina.

 

Eventually, we came to the river and crossed a bridge so that we could stroll along the shaded side under the plane trees, taking in the sights.

 

 

Later, we crossed back over the bridge, and took in the Piazza della Bocca della Verita, which is bounded by the Temples of the Forum Boarium 

and the Santa Maria in Cosmedin.

 

Later, we came across the Santa Maria in Campitelli

where I found this piece of gold embroidery.

 

Later, we visited the Galleria Alberto Sordi, but we weren't tempted to buy anything.  We didn't buy anything in the Rinascente department store either, but we did enjoy exploring their design section where we found this Smeg toaster and Smeg kettle.