Normally, before I go to a country, I do a lot of research - about the history the characteristics, the culture, the language, of the place I am visiting. I know some places I would like to visit. This trip, apart from booking accommodation, I made no such preparations. Life in the year ahead has been too stressful and complicated and busy to think more than one day at a time. Consequently, I have relied heavily on the others in our group for guidance as to where to go, and have been just absorbing the experiences at the same time as I am trying to drain off accumulated stress. I feel, nevertheless, that I know Italy, because of years of reading about it, knowing Italians, and loving Italian food. I have found lots of things to like here: the strong noses, the pride in dressing well, the foot pedals to turn on taps, the variety, tastiness and deliciousness of the food, the ability to combine the classic and the kitsch, the beauty of nature, the frequent reminders of the past. I have found much to bemuse me too - the ability to fit a bathroom into what should be a tiny cupboard, and the human ability to shower in minute spaces, the weirdness of some of the washing machines, the obsession with security - metal doors, bars on windows, collections of locks and passcodes, walls, barbed wire, glass - the combination of beauty and plain ugliness, the lack of desexing of dogs - I haven’t seen this many dog’s balls in years! - , the importance of gelati. I am also admiring of the sheer charm, ingenuity and audaciousness of the Africans trying to sell their bracelets. From bonding with you over the colour of your skin, to sympathising with you over your lack of a partner, to identifying your home country, to telling you stories about their brother living in your home town, to giving you a present, they never focus on the reason for their approach until the last possible moment, hoping by that time you are too much of a friend to repel the sale. Meanwhile, the Bangladeshi salesmen at markets are much more direct, but probably a lot more efficient. Even as unprepared as I am, Italy has charmed and amused and intrigued me.
I wasn’t sure I would like Rome. The sheer numbers of tourists and the stories I had heard about the crime and seediness and the jadedness of the city made me wary, but it has attracted me nevertheless. Bob and I went for a wander through the older part of the city with very little solid plan of attack and absolutely no real preparation.
We first came across the Piazza de La Rotonda with its fountain and Egyptian obelisk. Goodness people have removed a lot of Egyptian obelisks over the years!
In the same square we came across the rather amazing Pantheon
We then popped into Santa Maria sopra Minerva, a church which appears rather bland on the outside but quite fascinating on the inside, with wonderful ceilings
stained glass
and the most bizarre collection of skulls!
Our next find was a shop where the clergy shop for their clothes and accessories. Again, as a non Catholic, I found the shop rather bizarre. The prices were horrendously expensive!
Then, we came upon the terribly imposing Victor Emmanuel II monument in the Piazza
Venezia
and circled round it until we came to the Capitoline museum and decided to explore. We found it a bit confusing in that it is in 2 buildings and some of the stair wells were blocked off so we had to do a lot of backtracking, but we enjoyed its imposing rooms
collection of candelabras
and stunning sculptures,
views,
jewellery
china ( I found the only funny one in the collection)
and paintings
including some by Carvaggio.
we are getting very fit with all this walking, as well as more educated!
I’m glad the Catholic outfitters was so expensive. I would have been terrified otherwise that you might have bought me a gift��
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